So this is what fabulous looks and tastes like. The minimalist dining room is Grade-A sexy—it reminds us of an extra-large egg, thanks to the curved white seating, soft round lighting, pale white walls and sheer drapes. The soaring ceiling and windows and the dainty stemware contribute to the delicate, airy feeling, but that’s as far as your attention will veer from the real star of the show: Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ethereal Asian-influenced French cuisine (lobster tartine with a lemongrass and fenugreek broth; young garlic soup with frog’s legs). Vongerichten is a master at layering flavor, making each bite a hit parade of taste—striking you first with smoky, grilled sea bass, chasing it with tartly acidic ruby red grapefruit juice, then following with peppery-sweet caramelized radishes. Savor his flawless technique in a three-course meal or a seven-course procession of signature dishes.
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